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Philippe Desbos embodies in the Rhône, perhaps best of all, the phrase "Back to the old ways" by producing from his vineyards at 300+ meters above the river, in the Saint-Joseph appellation of origin of the Northern Rhône, wines from old stumps planted by his father. His Syrahs are fantastic, the best representation of the region's granite soils, and each year he selects some of his best in-progress foudre barrels (always old) to extend their maturation to 24 months (versus 16 in classic Vieilles Vignes) in this special bottling, 24 Mois de Futs Rouge. The result is a stunning Syrah that has tremendous finesse, power and exceptional complexity. A particularly rare wine, expressive with delightful aromas of strawberry and ripe blackberries, violets and notes of earth and leather. A textbook Syrah of the Northern Rhône.
Travelling to Philippe Desbos' stone-built farm to the north of the village of Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, traditionally one of the best terroirs of the Saint-Joseph appellation of origin, is like taking a trip through time. In this secluded spot, looking down on the Rhône from above, time has stopped and everything is done by Philippe himself as it was decades ago. Grapes are crushed by foot in open vats and fermentation is spontaneous. The wine for this special bottling is left in foudres for a total of 24 months and bottled unfiltered and unfiltered. Wonderful purity, lively character, fruit-driven palate, earthy notes and an elegant body that you only find in Northern Rhône in Syrah, with the acidity holding fantastic balance and harmoniously blending the whole which has amazing structure and energy. It will age superbly, though characteristically fresh and vibrant in its youth. Truly enjoyable.
On the one hand, great aromatic and flavour concentration, intensely oily sensation and richness in the mouth. On the other hand, excellent range, air and freshness. Multi-layered flavours and aromas, notes of quince, toast, caramel, along with strong dry-fruit elements. Richly sweet but with terrific lift and spirit leading to an exciting finish with...
