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The historic region outside Lisbon literally touches the Atlantic Ocean and is a real antidote to the homogenisation of the world's vineyards. In fact it is a unique "phenomenon" and more than understand it better to treat it as such (phenomenon). Where else, after all, will you find white wines aged for decades, from pre-drying vines literally on the coast, with aromas and flavours reminiscent of the salty air that rages in a region that defines the concept of cold viticulture. The 'diamond' of the Portuguese vineyard is gradually disappearing as a result of the relentless pressure exerted by the expansion of Lisbon's urban fabric. A few producers like Antonio Bernardino da Silva Chitas are fiercely resisting, giving the world beautiful wines from this fascinating terroir. Chitas Branco 2012 is a textbook of the potential of these wines. Energy and freshness alongside lovely honeyed evolution, herbal hints of chamomile and a palate that seems "immune" to time. An incredible capture of the region's unique oceanic terroir, it's as if you can smell the ocean in your glass. Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
Malvasia de Colares, which is genetically different from other varieties bearing the same name, is planted on the region's characteristic sandy soils with great care and effort to protect it from the strong, salt-laden Atlantic winds. In the cool coastal climate, alcohol is always restrained in these wines and the character is full of umami salinity and intense minerality, framed by lemony notes and herbal hints. Colares Chitas Branco is vinified in tanks and matured in old wooden barrels and in bottle before being released to the market. The ageing possibilities of the wine are truly limitless.
On the one hand, great aromatic and flavour concentration, intensely oily sensation and richness in the mouth. On the other hand, excellent range, air and freshness. Multi-layered flavours and aromas, notes of quince, toast, caramel, along with strong dry-fruit elements. Richly sweet but with terrific lift and spirit leading to an exciting finish with...