I lived in Portugal for four years – four years split between Lisbon, the colorful and vibrant capital, and the island of Madeira, a completely different, almost dreamlike world. Two places with vast contrasts in atmosphere, imagery, and rhythm. As if I lived two lives in the same country. 

But I won’t go on too long… I don’t want this to turn into a TikTok confession. And yet, no matter how hard I try to hold back the emotion, every time I open a Portuguese bottle of wine, it feels like a piece of that life unfolds again. Because Portugal is one of the few countries where wine isn’t just a product – it’s culture, identity, everyday life. It’s the sound of the tram climbing the narrow streets of Alfama, the laughter in the tavern decorated with colorful azulejos tiles, the dark hues of Madeira’s mountains, and the refreshing cocktails made with maracuja (passion fruit) and aguardente (distilled alcoholic spirit that contains between 29% and 60%alcohol).  https://open.spotify.com/track/2IBJHVCe0FCVodfl9sCA7q?si=b6c35ef4b60148b7

 

The wine world of Portugal, although rich and full of character, remains on the sidelines for many. It is often overshadowed by Spain, the "superstar" of the Iberian Peninsula, which draws all the spotlight. Yet, Portugal has its own story to tell — a quieter one, but filled with depth, distinctiveness, and authenticity.

The years passed, and — for better or worse — my path and Portugal’s gradually drifted apart, at least in physical presence. The people, the landscapes, the scents remained within me, but from a distance. Yet life has its way of bringing circles to a beautiful close. And today, I can proudly say that I have found a way to keep the memory of my beloved country alive — not as something of the past, but as part of my everyday life. Through my work at Mr Vertigo, I continue to "travel" to Portugal, now collaborating with some of the greatest unsung wine heroes, who truly deserve to be celebrated. In 2024, together with Yiannis Siganos — who shares my passion for Portuguese wines — we visited the "land of explorers" twice. We literally crisscrossed its most important wine regions, aiming to meet firsthand the people behind the labels; those who transform the land, the climate, and history into wines with true character.

 

One of the regions that truly moved us was Dão — an area that for years remained underestimated, but today is emerging as one of the most dynamic chapters of Portuguese winemaking. Dão is the country's oldest officially established appellation (DOC) and is located south of the Douro River. The region is characterized by its granitic soils and is surrounded by iconic mountain ranges that act as natural barriers, protecting the vineyards from the dry heat of neighboring Spain.   The result is a unique diversity of microclimates, with significant temperature differences between day and night, which help the grapes maintain their natural acidity and freshness. The region takes its name from the Dão River, along which most of the vineyards are spread. The highest-quality vineyards are located at elevations between 150 and 450 meters above sea level. These large temperature fluctuations between day and night allow the grapes to "rest" and preserve the acidity that is so vital for producing high-quality wines.

 

However, the greatest surprise for me will always be the region of Colares, on the edge of the mystical Sintra. A setting so breathtaking — quite literally. It’s one of those places that cannot be described with words. You simply have to stand there, feel the Atlantic breeze, witness the wild beauty of the landscape, and let time come to a halt. Colares is a traditionally historic and almost mythical wine region, located on Portugal’s central coastline, at the southwestern tip of the Lisboa wine zone. It is known mainly for two reasons: its wines made from the unique and almost extinct Ramisco grape variety, and its extraordinary sandy soils, which have granted it an incredible historic "immunity." In Colares, the soil is everything. The surface consists of loose sand ("chão de areia"), beneath which lie denser, heavier clay layers ("chão rijo"). This feature is critical: only wines produced from vineyards planted in this combination of soils are entitled to bear the official designation "Colares." This unique environment protected the region from the devastating phylloxera plague of the 19th century — the tiny pest that destroyed nearly all European vineyards. Phylloxera cannot survive in sand, and thus the vines of Colares never had to be grafted onto resistant rootstocks, as is now the norm almost everywhere else in the world. 

 

Ramisco, the grape variety cultivated almost exclusively here, may well be the only Vitis vinifera variety in the world that has never undergone grafting. Its wines are robust, with intense tannins and an incredible aging potential — true tasting experiences that defy the norm. I still remember the first time I opened a bottle of Ramisco, many years ago. It was like opening a door to another century — rough, untamed, but profoundly moving. A wine that compels you to think about it, to almost listen to it, not just to drink it. One of those experiences you never forget. Just like Colares itself.

 

As unique as Ramisco is among reds, equally mysterious and atmospheric is Malvasia de Colares among whites. Few know that this region, beyond its robust, age-worthy reds, has historically produced some of Portugal’s — and not only Portugal’s — most distinctive white wines.  The Malvasia here bears little resemblance to the more familiar, "easy" Mediterranean interpretations. It’s a grape that, when planted in the sandy soils of Colares and cultivated with the region’s traditional methods, takes on an almost noble character — dense, mineral, and complex, qualities you only find in wines with true history.  Malvasia de Colares wines are often bone-dry on the palate, with a salinity that speaks to the proximity of the Atlantic, notes of white flowers, lemon, and herbs, and an authentic earthiness that is hard to compare to anything else. These are not wines that flatter easily. They require time. They require food. And they require a soul that is a little romantic, a little nostalgic, to truly understand them. If Ramisco is the body of Colares, then Malvasia is its soul.

 

I could go on writing for hours — but let’s not turn this into a series. Most likely, I’ll just open a bottle of my favorite Beiorte from my old, dear friend João Costa, and continue the daydreaming... with a glass in hand. Saúde!

Sissy Manataki