In the "heart" of Saint-Joseph, an appellation of origin whose historical core was largely vineyards on steep slopes above the Rhône, Phillipe Desbos of Domaine de Gouye is a third-generation winegrower-winemaker and one of the region's well-kept secrets, in the village of Saint-Jean-de-Muzols. The region which was industrialised and spread out to a very large extent, including flatter fertile vineyards in the 1960s, is often the answer to the question of where the hope for the future of the Rhône lies in its best historic vineyards.

Domaine de Gouye's mere 3 hectares of vineyards, in the best part of the large-scale appellation of origin, are planted between 1955 and 1975, high above the river, at an altitude of over 300 metres mean that the minimum production of its wonderful Saint-Joseph's is always less than demand and getting a 'hand' on them is really difficult.

The wines show an authentic expression of Saint-Joseph and the Northern Rhône and the approach is completely traditional, with the wines being made exactly as they were decades ago. Philippe Desbos epitomises the trend of returning to old methods with a minimalist approach to both the vineyard and the winery. In the vineyard, Ramses, the winery horse, ploughs the vines, helping greatly in the good aeration of the soils. In the winery, the grapes are pressed with the foot.

Set against the noble origins and reputation of the imposing Hermitage hill just across the river, these wines showcase the tenacity of a fantastic vigneron in its tradition, in the uniqueness of the terroir and without stepping on the ease of fame and name.